๐ To the Edge of Eurasia: A Day Trip to Toledo
Prologue
The longest flight, the longest journey, the most cities visited. Compared to all my previous trips, this one holds records in everything “MAXIMUM,” and these records are not easy to break. It was also my very first time spending both New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day abroad. From December 31, 2015, to January 23, 2016, I spent about 25 days traveling with friends across Spain and Portugal. It was a land of warm winters I had never experienced before, where orange trees stood tall alongside palm trees. Though connected on the same Eurasian continent, Spain and Portugal lie at the far western edge, and here begins the story from that distant end of the continent.
๐ Heading to Toledo from Madrid
On our second day in Madrid, we had planned a day trip to Toledo. Like Segovia, it only takes about 30 minutes by train, and trains depart every hour. A one-way ticket costs around €12. After arriving at Toledo station, you need to take a city bus into the old town—this is where the real Toledo experience begins. The bus fare was about €1.40. At the time I didn’t think much of it, but looking back now, Spain’s transportation wasn’t exactly cheap compared to Korea.
๐ฐ Plaza de Zocodover and the Mini Train
At Plaza de Zocodover, I noticed a teacher leading a group of very young children, maybe kindergarteners or early elementary school students. Whenever I see teachers guiding children on a field trip—even while I’m on vacation—it reminds me of my own profession and gives me a bittersweet feeling. Was that really one class size?
From the red ticket booth in the plaza, we bought a €5 ticket for the tourist mini train. The ride takes about 50 minutes, following the river and circling the old town. The right-side seats offered the best views.
One detail that impressed me was how the traffic control bollards sank smoothly into the ground as the mini train entered the plaza. I thought they were just immovable car barriers, but seeing them vanish underground felt almost shocking!
As the train circled the city, I was struck by Toledo’s ochre-colored architecture. In some photos, it almost looked like a Middle Eastern city rather than Spain. Toledo is a UNESCO World Heritage city—let’s take a closer look.
๐️ Historical Layers of Toledo
Toledo is surrounded by the Tagus River, which flows like a natural moat around the city. This made it a nearly impregnable fortress. Unlike many European towns, there are hardly any modern buildings within the old city walls. Roman ruins such as aqueducts, cisterns, and amphitheaters remain, and most of the roads are pedestrian streets.
After the Roman Empire, the Visigoths ruled Spain and established their royal palace in Toledo, making it a political and religious center. In 1085, King Alfonso VI conquered the city, which then became the capital of Castile and a major religious hub. Christianity, Islam, and Judaism coexisted here, creating a blend of cultures reflected in its architecture: Gothic palaces, Islamic mosques, and Jewish synagogues all within walking distance. This unique mixture gives Toledo a mystical and dreamlike atmosphere.
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Notable Islamic monuments include Cristo de la Luz Mosque and the Puerta de Bisagra, built in the mid-16th century. The gate features the double-headed eagle crest of Charles I of Spain.
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The Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun), built in the 13th century, is said to align with the meridian line, bathing in sunlight from dawn to dusk.
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The Church of Santo Tomรฉ houses El Greco’s famous masterpiece The Burial of the Count of Orgaz.
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The Alcรกzar Fortress, once the residence of Queen Isabella I, still dominates the skyline.
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๐ The Tagus River
During the mini-train tour, we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking the Tagus River. It originates in Spain’s Albarracรญn Mountains and flows about 1,000 km westward, cutting across the Iberian Peninsula before reaching Lisbon and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. In Latin it’s called Tagus, in Spanish Tajo, and in Portuguese Tejo. For someone from Korea, where rivers never cross into another country, seeing a river connect two nations was fascinating.
๐ท Lunch at Restaurante Dragos
We had lunch at a two-story restaurant called Restaurante Dragos and were seated upstairs. The owner greeted us with a complimentary drink—a strong, clear liquor served in a small glass. At first, it tasted sweet, but then came a fiery punch that hit like a slap on the back of the head. Our dramatic reactions seemed to amuse the owner, who left with a satisfied grin.
Although we didn’t order much, the bill wasn’t expensive either. It felt more like the owner was genuinely happy to welcome travelers from afar, which warmed my heart.
After the meal, we strolled around the old town again to digest before heading back.
๐ Toledo Cathedral
The Toledo Cathedral, the largest in the city, is a striking mix of Gothic and Islamic styles. Construction took 226 years to complete. With its towering spires and massive structure, it was nearly impossible to capture the entire building in a single photo unless taken from across the plaza. Inside, the design gives the impression of a cathedral within a cathedral, filled with artwork and religious treasures not found in other European cathedrals.
✡️ Jewish Synagogue and Beyond
We headed toward the Jewish quarter and came across a synagogue with its distinctive ochre-colored faรงade. Although we didn’t go inside, just behind it was a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tagus River and the San Martรญn Bridge.
๐ฌ Sweet Treats at Mazapรกn
Back at Plaza de Zocodover, we stopped by a bakery famous for Mazapรกn, Toledo’s signature almond pastry. I ended up buying about €13 worth—not a small amount for snacks! The shop also sold gift sets, which suggested it was a well-known specialty.
๐จ Evening at Museo Reina Sofรญa
Our next stop back in Madrid was the Museo Reina Sofรญa.
Since admission was free in the evening, we decided to drop by lightly but ended up seeing the main highlights in one go. The museum is huge, so carrying a map is helpful to avoid missing any exhibitions.
We saw masterpieces like Picasso’s Guernica and The Great Masturbator by Dalรญ, along with many works by Mirรณ. For anyone who might miss visiting the Picasso Museum in Barcelona or the Dalรญ Theatre-Museum in Figueres, Reina Sofรญa is a fantastic alternative. Even with a paid ticket, the experience would be well worth it.
๐ฒ Final Dinner in Madrid
For our last dinner in Madrid, we tried a local restaurant that served paella, salad, and a curious lukewarm tomato soup. Some in our group were hesitant to order it, but curiosity won out. Personally, I found it unique and worth trying—something I probably wouldn’t encounter anywhere else.
๐ Wrapping Up
That night, we packed our bags, which had grown heavier with all the souvenirs, and shared our last stories in Madrid. It was a fitting end to a long and unforgettable journey.
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