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A Journey to Escape the Heat: A 2013 Summer Trip through Finland, Sweden, Norway, and Denmark

This travelogue was updated in 2020. Please note that operating hours can vary depending on the season and that there may be regular closure days as well as closures on specific holidays such as Christmas, Epiphany, and New Year's Day. Therefore, when planning your schedule, be sure to check Google Maps or the official websites directly.

@Amalienborg; Amalienborg palace

Open_ 10:00~17:00 (Except Summer season ~ 15:00 or ~16:00, Jan 11:00~19:00)
Close_ Monday Jan~May, November~December and Christmas season
Fee_ 175 DKK (Entry closes 20 minutes before the venue closes.) (Copenhagen Card is available)

Amalienborg Palace is an architectural ensemble made up of four Rococo-style palaces surrounding an octagonal pavilion. It's speculated that architect Nicolai Eigtved drew inspiration from Place de la Concorde in Paris when designing this layout. The unique Rococo style of Amalienborg blends German and French influences, making it a distinctive example of this architectural period.

Inside the Pompeii Chamber, the door handles are shaped like dolphins—a nod to French tradition where the dolphin symbolizes the heir to the throne. This detail was likely intended to remind Christian VIII of his future role as king.

Originally built in the 1750s as residences for the nobility, Amalienborg became the royal family's property after the 1794 fire at Christiansborg Palace. The name "Amalienborg" comes from the summer palace "Sophie Amalienborg," which was built between 1667 and 1673 for Queen Sophie Amalie. This Italian-style villa was a beautiful retreat and a venue for court festivities until it was destroyed by fire in 1689 during a birthday celebration for Christian V. The adjacent opera house caught fire, and its heavy decorations and difficult exits led to the tragic deaths of nearly 180 young nobles as the flames quickly spread to the palace.

After the fire, there were various reconstruction plans, but no significant progress was made until 1749, when a group of merchants proposed a plan for the area. Their proposal was ultimately taken up by Chamberlain A.G. Moltke, who was effectively ruling on behalf of King Frederick V due to the king's lavish lifestyle.

Nicolai Eigtved, a prominent court architect of the Rococo style, was appointed to oversee the urban planning for the Frederiksstaden district, which included Amalienborg and Frederik's Church. Eigtved was responsible for the design and construction guidelines of the entire district, ensuring a sense of equality and orderliness in the street views. He may have also overseen other palaces, given the speed of construction—Frederiksstaden's work began in 1750, the first townhouses were completed the following year, nine palaces were finished before 1760, and Frederik's Hospital was built in 1757, all within an impressively short period.

Frederiksstaden was designed as an ideal city, reflecting the nation's vision of how a state should function. The city plan was a carefully crafted expression of power, social order, and the responsibilities of the monarchy. At the heart of this design is the equestrian statue of King Frederick V, symbolizing the king drawing his power from God, represented by the Frederik's Church, and being surrounded by the royal family and nobility in Amalienborg Palace.

The grand commercial buildings along Amaliegade Street symbolize the increasing importance of commerce to the well-being of the state. These structures, along with the many townhouses in the area, were intentionally designed to project the image of a diligent and prosperous bourgeoisie, emphasizing the value of hard work and economic contribution.

Additionally, the inclusion of Frederik's Hospital, now the Danish Design Museum, highlights the state's commitment to caring for its vulnerable citizens, illustrating the nation's role in providing social welfare. This aspect of the urban plan underscores the enlightened values of the time, showing that the state not only wielded power but also had a duty to protect and support its people.

At the square, you can witness the changing of the Royal Guard, which varies depending on whether any members of the royal family are currently residing in the palace. The type of flag flying above the palace roof indicates who is in residence. If you see a swallow-tailed flag, it means that no one is home at the moment. The different flags add a fascinating element to the ceremony, giving visitors insight into the royal family’s presence at Amalienborg Palace.

@Rosenborg slot; Rosenborg palace

Open_ 9:00~17:00 (Except summer season 10:00~, ~15:00, ~16:00)
Close_ Jan, End of Feb ~ beginning of March, Monday of November ~ December, Christmas season
Fee_ 140 DKK (Copenhagen Card is available)

The medieval Copenhagen Castle was so outdated that Christian IV, a young and ambitious Renaissance ruler, needed a residence in Copenhagen that matched his stature. Starting with a small summer palace, the construction took 28 years and four phases to complete the Rosenborg Castle we see today in 1633. Christian IV was so fond of this castle that, when he was on his deathbed at Frederiksborg, he ordered to be transported by sleigh to Rosenborg so he could spend his final moments in its bedroom.

Rosenborg Castle, with its towering spires and red sandstone decoration, stands as one of the most significant buildings from Christian IV’s reign. Despite many changes during its construction, the castle was built with a sense of grandeur and perfection. It was designed in the Dutch Renaissance style, which influenced the typical architectural form of Danish buildings from that era. Given Christian IV's extensive knowledge and passion for architecture, it’s likely that he contributed many ideas during the castle’s construction.

In 1605-1606, the core of Rosenborg’s southern part, known as the "Pleasure Palace," was built with two floors (excluding the main floor) and a spire with a spiral staircase facing the city, while the eastern side faced the bay. In 1611, a gate tower with a drawbridge was erected, forming the central part of the current Gate House.

Between 1613 and 1615, the Pleasure Palace was doubled in size, reaching its current dimensions while still maintaining a two-story structure. Although it was ready for habitation in 1615, construction continued the following year. New warehouses were built, the spire was modified, and a large tower was added to the west. By 1624, the construction was complete, and Christian IV first used the name "Rosenborg."

In 1633, an issue arose with the entrance to the bedrooms on the second and third floors, which became urgent when Christian IV’s son was getting married. The original staircase was demolished and replaced with the current staircase and a double external staircase, which initially connected the outside door to the second floor. The internal staircase, which originally only connected the second and third floors, was extended to the first floor in 1758.

Rosenborg Castle served as the royal residence until Christian IV’s great-grandson, Frederick IV, desired a different summer palace. Instead, Frederick IV transformed Rosenborg into a repository for royal collections, given its well-preserved interior. Originally, the private bedrooms were on the first floor, with the king’s room in the north and the queen’s in the south, connected by an antechamber leading to the second floor. During Frederick III’s reign, the king and queen remodeled their bedrooms to suit the grandeur of absolute monarchy. Christian V adorned the walls with twelve tapestries commemorating the Scanian War victory, and Frederick IV divided the first-floor antechamber, converting one part into the "Dark Room," a bedroom for the king and queen. The second floor remained unchanged.

After Frederick IV, Rosenborg Castle was used exclusively as a royal residence following the 1794 fire at Christiansborg Palace and the British attack on Copenhagen in 1801.

The garden and botanical area are incredibly spacious, making it perfect for a leisurely stroll. There are wooden tables and benches in the dining area, so if you've brought a packed lunch, it's a great spot to enjoy your meal.

While touring the interior of the palace, a security guy asked me where I was from. When I said I was from Korea, he asked me to teach him how to say hello and goodbye in Korean. I explained that both greetings are "안녕" but with different intonations: you raise your tone when saying hello and elongate the ending when saying goodbye. As I was explaining this, I realized that in English, the greetings for hello and goodbye are different, and I think it’s the same in Danish.

Watching him try to mimic my pronunciation, I felt both a sense of warmth and a peculiar disconnect—hearing someone from a faraway country say "안녕" in Korean was both comforting and surreal. Despite being much taller than me, his attempt at mimicking the intonation made him seem rather endearing. It would be lovely if he remembered how to say "안녕" so that when another Korean visits, he could greet them with a familiar "안녕."

@Nyhavn

In the midst of a packed schedule, it wasn’t until the latter part of the trip that I finally found some free time. While wandering around European streets, I often noticed people sitting at outdoor cafés, sipping coffee or beer even on weekday afternoons. Whether they were tourists or locals, I couldn't help but feel a bit envious. After all, I’m a traveler too.

Although it was well past meal time, the lingering daylight made it feel like midday, and I realized that this might have been the first proper meal I had enjoyed during my trip. The weather was perfect, and sitting at an outdoor table by the canal with pizza and beer felt incredibly satisfying. It wasn’t a grand gesture, but it made me immensely happy. It was like enjoying everything life had to offer without spending much. Just like those people lounging at the outdoor cafés, I wasn't sure whether they were tourists or locals, but for the first time, I felt like I was truly escaping my busy life—though, in reality, I had already escaped it. This moment of shared leisure left a lasting impression on me.

As I continued my journey, I realized that despite my desire to visit and see everything, I rarely found time for a proper tea break unless it was scheduled. I guess I’m just too determined to stick to my itinerary to allow for any spontaneous tea time!

@Copenhagen Canal tour

Originally, I hadn’t planned on taking a cruise tour. However, after having a meal at a restaurant near the canal and soaking up the sun, I started feeling a bit drowsy and thought it might be nice to relax on a cruise while exploring the city. When I checked the time, it seemed like the timing was just right, so I decided to go for it.

The Netto Boat Tour departs from near Nyhavn and takes about an hour to complete. An English-speaking guide is also available on the tour. If you have a Copenhagen Card, you can board the cruise for free.

I had a beer, and as I basked in the sunlight, the boat rocked with the waves, giving me a cradle-like feeling, so I actually dozed off a bit in the middle of the tour. I hope I didn’t miss any spectacular views while I was asleep... 😊

This is the "Black Diamond Library," built from black granite. There is an accessible area on the east side, and it is closed on Sundays. On weekdays, it is open from 8 AM to 7 PM, and on Saturdays from 10 AM to 4 PM.

With the days being so long, it was really difficult to catch the night view. On this day as well, I ended up returning to the accommodation without capturing the darkening sky.